- Hsmworks 4th axis setup pdf#
- Hsmworks 4th axis setup driver#
- Hsmworks 4th axis setup pro#
- Hsmworks 4th axis setup Pc#
- Hsmworks 4th axis setup plus#
The labels say: YOC CW5741-2012 1,8° 1,8A for 3020T 3040T If you've different motors than mine, have you tried the other settings that are available on the net? Step pulse 3 and Dir pulse 1 When I got the machine i used this settings and it was a mess, so maybe you need other settings than mine. I'm wondering if you got the same motors I have. This is just an example where home switches can save your work.
Hsmworks 4th axis setup Pc#
PS About the home switches, yes I agree with you that a perfect cnc machine would work fine even without them but I have the case when I switched the power switch instead of the motor one while I was looking at the PC and moving my axes and the machine's coordinates messed up. I'm curious about the Pokeys solution with Mach3 and the Postep25 boards seem good and affordable, so please keep me informed on how it goes if you'll switch to them! Cheers, V.
Hsmworks 4th axis setup pdf#
I attach you my actual motor configs (all the rest is unchanged compared to the pdf I attached in my first post) the z motor has half the acceleration than the x,y ones. Yesterday I bought some Solder Mask Paint on ebay to try to do some SMD design while keeping ground planes and keeping milling time low (unless soldering the components would be a PITA) but I'm also oriented in changing sooner or later the yoocnc controller.
Just mentioning this because if you're loosing too much time with this issue I would suggest indeed to change the controller. I read about a guy who took one month to make everything work correctly and it took to me more than two weeks to have a minimal decent result with no guarantees for bigger circuits (without ground planes in particular.). As you might have seen from my first post the steps lost by simply milling a flat bed are too many. Hello, yeah I wouldn't trust Yoocnc with such a PCB without the groundplane. and it was double sided hence my big via's so it's easier to solder without a mess with no soldermask. I can't stand holes not being in the centre, but that circuit worked none the less. Just on another note, I done a little bit of SMD work, with very small boards and if everything is fine, you can really make nice boards, but as you can see, even with the small board it lost steps. Unless you have something else to contribute, but I am loosing time and money at the moment because of this.
At least the box and and some of the guts are reusable when I rip out this crap and fit the Pokeys devices.
Hsmworks 4th axis setup plus#
They are dirt, and I bet those Toshiba chips are fake and those NXP chips are fake, plus this controller is already a copy of a clone of a clone. I have a Pokeys55U already, so I am thinking of ordering the Postep25 boards and dump these YOOCNC cards. The cable use for the motors isn't the best, but I have metered them out and they pass. I also checked the coupling to see if their nice and tight on the motors and they are. I have took apart the CNC table to check for loose screws etc and can't find anything wrong with it. I have to tune mine down to 480mm / min on all axis or I heard high pitch whines and rattling. What are you mach3 settings ? My motors stall even 1500mm / min settings.
Hsmworks 4th axis setup driver#
Same goes when the Driver Test from Mach3 I never use the probe and I have milled out a square flat bed for the PCB's to be attached to (When it worked normal) I get vibrations on the X and Y axis also especially during tuns and slow movement. I think there's a lot of noise as when the machine is working and I move the mouse of the CNC computer it changes the speed of the motors and the noise of the goes to a higher pitch. I have also metered out the amps the motors are drawing etc, transformer etc etc all looks normal. I replaced the Caps with Nichicon low esr types on each axis. I usually do the run twice if it's a tight circuit, second pass at a higher feedrate. My milling speed is 150 mm/min 11000 RPM with the bit only removing the copper. I used to use Eagle with the ULP PCB-Gcode and I am aware of the G-code Wizard, but how would it compare to Vcarve ? A CNC controller that actually works doesn't need home switches (Desktop version) If you don't loose steps then it returns to where you started the job from.
Hsmworks 4th axis setup pro#
1mm engraving tip for traces and two size drills for the job I use Diptrace + Vetric Vcarve pro and Mach3. If you look at the attached picture I will show you the size of the circuit plus drilling I am also using a.
Your work looks ok, but my projects are much larger than that little board, so it doesn't have time to give your work massive error.